Description
St Mary Somerset dates from at least the C12th, and appears to have been called St Mary's Summer's Hith, perhaps due to its proximity to a wharf or 'hith' owned by a family of that name or after Ralph de Sumery. Destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 the church was rebuilt by Wren in 1685-94. Churchwardens' Accounts for 1680 record that 6 elm trees were planted in the burial ground. The church was demolished in 1869 and the site was acquired by the Corporation of London in 1872. The tower at the south-west corner was saved by an Act of Parliament and is all that remains of the church, standing within a small garden formed on the former burial ground. On the level area facing the tower the garden is largely planted with yew and privet hedging, creating seating areas protected from the busy road alongside. Behind the tower the garden slopes steeply upwards.
Practical Information
| Site location | Upper Thames Street/Castle Baynard Street/Lambeth Hill |
|---|---|
| Postcode | EC4V 4GG |
| What3Words | ///soap.desire.frame |
| Type of Site | Public Gardens |
| Borough | City of London |
| Open to Public | Yes |
| Opening Times | unrestricted |
| Public Transport | Tube: Mansion House (District, Circle) |
| Research Updated | 1 June 2010 |
| Last Updated | 18 October 2026 |
Full description
An engraving from a drawing by Frederick Mackenzie in Godwin (1838) shows the churchyard of St Mary Somerset with gravestones. Churchwardens' Accounts for 1680 record that 6 elm trees were planted in the burial ground. The foundation of St Mary Somerset dates from at least the C12th, and Sir John de Peyton is documented as presenting to the church in 1335. It appears to have been called St Mary's Summer's Hith, perhaps due to its proximity to a wharf or 'hith' owned by a family of that name or perhaps after someone called Ralph de Sumery. According to John Stow, in 1370 the churchyard was used as the place where weavers of Brabant were to gather for the purposes of hiring, whereas Flemish weavers were to gather for the same purpose in the churchyard of St Lawrence Pountney (q.v.). The reason for this separation was due to disputes among the weavers. St Mary Somerset, which stood at the corner of Old Fish Street Hill and Thames Street, was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 and rebuilt by Wren in 1685-94 at which time it united with the parish of St Mary de Monte Alto or Monthaut on Old Fish Street Hill, which was also destroyed in the fire but not rebuilt. This church had belonged to the Bishop of Hereford and was built pre-1275 as the Mounthaunt family chapel, hence the name, and its site was used as a burial ground until Queen Victoria Street was built over it. In 1701 Gilbert Hereford, Bishop of Hereford, was buried here, a memorial tablet set in the pavement in the chancel.
The church was demolished in 1869 and the site acquired by the Corporation of London in September 1872; the altar, font, pulpit and bell went to St Mary Hoxton. The square stone tower, which stood at the south-west corner of the building, independent of the body of the church, was saved by an Act of Parliament and is all that remains standing within a small garden, which slopes steeply upwards. The tower has an elaborate cornice with a square pedestal at each corner each surmounted by an urn, between which are further pedestals each with an ornamental obelisk, restored in 1956 by Corporation of London. The sloping garden area was chiefly in the form of a flight of steps leading towards Queen Victoria Street with raised beds either side planted with trees and shrubs. In the early C21st it was closed due to sewerage works apart from a strip of grass with some flowers at the junction of Upper Thames Street and Castle Baynard Street to the east of the tower. One of the trees was damaged during these works. The re-landscaped garden is now open, and largely consists of blocks of shaped hedging, with trees and benches set within it.
The church was demolished in 1869 and the site acquired by the Corporation of London in September 1872; the altar, font, pulpit and bell went to St Mary Hoxton. The square stone tower, which stood at the south-west corner of the building, independent of the body of the church, was saved by an Act of Parliament and is all that remains standing within a small garden, which slopes steeply upwards. The tower has an elaborate cornice with a square pedestal at each corner each surmounted by an urn, between which are further pedestals each with an ornamental obelisk, restored in 1956 by Corporation of London. The sloping garden area was chiefly in the form of a flight of steps leading towards Queen Victoria Street with raised beds either side planted with trees and shrubs. In the early C21st it was closed due to sewerage works apart from a strip of grass with some flowers at the junction of Upper Thames Street and Castle Baynard Street to the east of the tower. One of the trees was damaged during these works. The re-landscaped garden is now open, and largely consists of blocks of shaped hedging, with trees and benches set within it.
Further Information
| Grid Reference | TQ321808 |
|---|---|
| Size in hectares | 0.0166 |
| Site Ownership | Diocese of London (former churchyard)/City of London Corporation |
| Site Management | City of London Corporation Open Spaces Dept. |
| Dates | C12th onwards |
| Listed Structures | LBI: Tower of former church of St Mary Somerset |
| On National Heritage List for England (NHLE), Parks & Gardens | No |
| Registered common or village green on Commons Registration Act 1965 | No |
| Protected under London Squares Preservation Act 1931 | No |
| Local Authority | City of London |
| In Conservation Area | No |
| Tree Preservation Order | No |
| Nature Conservation Area | No |
| Green Belt | No |
| Metropolitan Open Land | No |
| Special Policy Area | Yes - Thames Policy Area/St Paul's Heights Policy Area |
| Other LA Designation | Strategic Viewing Corridor |
Gallery
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Nearby parks and gardens
It is not known why the church was called St Nicholas Cole Abbey. The pre-Fire church was ancient, the main body predating its C14th tower and south aisle. By the C16th the church was below the surrounding ground level, which had been raised in the interim. Destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, a new and larger church by Wren was built in 1677. The church was bombed in WWII and rebuilt in 1961/2 but later closed to worship. Gate piers and railings remain either side of the flight of steps leading up to the church door from Queen Victoria Street, with gravelled areas either side.
Cleary Garden is a terraced garden originally created following bomb damage in WWII. A plaque records Joseph Brandis, member of the Cordwainers Company, who created the garden on the bomb-site. The area originally housed Roman baths and in the Middle Ages vintners used the site for trading and growing vines. The garden was later named after Frederick Cleary, Chairman of the MPGA, when it was re-landscaped in 1985-88 with pergolas on a number of levels, paved areas and seating, sloping lawn and a wide variety of planting. In 2007 the garden underwent major re-refurbishment as the Loire Valley Wines Legacy Garden with vines and aromatic plants evoking the wines of the Loire region.
Old Change Court is a landscaped area laid out in the 1960s as part of City Walkway and overlooks St Nicholas Cole Abbey. There are areas of grass, paving and seats, small trees and shrubs and a sculpture by Michael Ayrton, 'Icarus', dated 1973. This is dedicated to Bernard Sunley (1910-1964) 'who loved gardens and the City of London' and it was presented to the Corporation of London by the Bernard Sunley Investment Trust Ltd.